You Must Be Manly To View The Branly

In the wee hours before dawn, while I slumbered in my bed, Fiachna and one of his friends were sitting in La Sauterelle with Patrick. They said that they were busy being "philosopher kings." Based on my own experience of the magical hallucinogenic post-dinner drink that Patrick serves, I know how this can happen.

Most of Paris was asleep too. But all of a sudden, a young guy looked into the front door of the restaurant and said hello to Patrick. Patrick invited him to join les rois de philosophe. The guy started to pull up a chair, but hesitated and said in English, "You are not homosexuals, are you?"

That was worth a big laugh all the way around. But he was serious. So, the three Muscadet-eers assured him of their masculinity, and relieved, down he sat. Together, they watched the dawn arrive, and spoke of deep and artistic and cultural things. It turned out that the new arrival works at the Musée du quai Branly, an interesting modern museum that houses a huge collection of indigenous art from Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas.

Surprisingly, everyone remembered everything the next morning, and Fiachna called the guy from the Branly to take him up on his offer to give us a private tour of the museum. Fiachna made sure to tell him that he would be coming with his two daughters and three other lady friends of his, which included me. With such an entourage, Fiachna again asserted his masculinity.

Our friend greeted us at the front entrance and buzzed us into the museum offices so that we could see the unique design of the museum. At the very top floor of the building at the far back was an aerie of sorts, a large executive meeting room with glass from floor to ceiling. The view was lovely. At our backs, the Eiffel tower loomed, as if the museum was built just underneath it. Just below the executive room, was the outside back wall, called le mur végétal, or the living wall, designed by Gilles Clément and Patrick Blanc. It's is a three-story wall, covered in plants.

It was a difficult and sad day for me, but I enjoyed wandering through the collections. Photos aren't allowed inside the museum, but I was able to get this shot from the suspended hallway in between the executive building and the museum. I loved the rocks on the roofs of the color blocks, until someone said they were probably put there just to hold the roof paper in place. But still, look how artfully, how Zen gardenish they are. I just want to get a little rake out and smooth the pebbles all around them.